Muhammad Ali Sadpara: A True Gem

Muhammad Ali Sadpara: A True Gem

Muhammad Ali Sadpara: A Family Man, As Mighty as a Mountaineer.

Muhammad Ali Sadpara is the only Pakistani who has climbed 8 of the 14 peaks that are 8,000 meters high. When the happy Muhammad Ali Sadpara asked me what it took to become a climber in 2016, Aap ki village hone charidee paharoon kay saath [Your heart must fall in love with the mountains].

As an “interesting and kind companion,” Sadpara is often described by his peers as a nail climber with a playful nature. Sadpara was the only Pakistani to climb eight of the 14 peaks at 8,000 meters.

When he joined the Spanish Alex Txikon and the Italian Simon Moreau (Simon Morrow) Together, they set a world record when Nanga Parbat’s first winter summit was held in 2016. The Spanish and Italian Lula’s sensational endorsement of Sadpara is a man who is basically hidden from the public view of Pakistan.

Pakistan is home to five peaks at an altitude of 8,000 meters, including K2, Nanga Parbat, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum I and II. The rest are in Nepal and China.

This talented and humble climber was born on February 2, 1976, in Sadpara, a village near Skardu in the Gilgit-Baltistan region.


“Sadpara” or “Sadpara” is known for its porters, who have helped countless climbers realize their dreams while on the Baltoro Glacier (the gateway to the mighty K2 and other peaks) Bear a heavy burden.

Over the years, the country has seen the rise of many climbers.

  • Nazir Sabre, the first Pakistani to climb Mount Everest,
  • Ashraf Aman, the first with the late Nisar Hussein Sadpara and Hassan Sadpara to climb K2 Pakistani.
  • Samina Baig was the first Pakistani woman to climb Mount Everest, just a few other names.

In this context, the rise of Muhammad Ali Sadpara, as he put it, “is due to hard work and sheer luck.”

Staring at the gatekeeper, he found his first suitable rock climbing performance when he accompanied the K2 expedition in 2004.

Muhammad Ali Sadpara: A True Gem

a true gem


In an interview published by Liming, he said: “My first job was to provide supplies to the Pakistani military site leading to Siachen Road in the mid-1990s.”

According to his “Alps Magazine” magazine profile, Ali could not resist this opportunity when a Pakistani military truck withdrew to Sadpara to recruit porters. At that time, Pakistan and India were caught in a long-term struggle against the Siachen Glacier (the strategic gateway to China). Ali is heading towards the highest battlefield in the world. At night, he would climb the ice wall, deliver supplies to soldiers on remote mountain paths, and pray that the darkness would protect him from shells. He remembered the shells were “as cruel as fireworks at a wedding.”

Ali recalled: “After Saiyan, I am no longer afraid.” Climbing has two results, and death must be brave enough to accept any possibility. ”

Out of a heartfelt invitation to his family, he disregarded his family’s suggestions to join the police force or the army because they offered high salaries, free housing or conspiracy.

“I keep telling my wife and family that I don’t want to work. This is the climb I want to do.”

There was no looking back.

When business is short, Sadpara will return to farming. In 2006, Gasherbrum II, the first peak of 8000 meters, was climbed without proper climbing equipment.

“I have no suitable shoes, no jacket, let alone a feather suit, to protect me from the cold. I have some second-hand climbing gear, which I bought and repaired from the market in Skardu. But I can crawl back peacefully.”

Beyond the Heights - Film by Mirza Ali Shimshal

Since then, there has never been a comeback. He continued to climb Spantik Peak (Pakistan) in 2006, Nanga Parbat (Pakistan) in 2008, Muztagh Ata (China) in 2008, Nanga Parbat (Pakistan) in 2009, and Gasherbrum I (Pakistan) in 2010 ) And the first winter climb in Nanga Parbat. (Pakistan) in 2016, Broad Peak (Pakistan) in 2017, Nanga Parbat (Autumn) in the first fall of 2017, Pumori in 2017, the first winter climb in Nepal, in 2018 K2 in Pakistan, Lhotse in 2019 (in Nepal), Makalu (Nepal)

In 2018, veteran French climber Marc Batard and Pasang Nuru Sherpa from Nepal took the cable car in Sadpara to participate in a five-year climbing project called “Beyond Everest.”

To celebrate Batard’s 70th birthday, the three plan to climb Nanga Parbat in 2019, K-2 in 2021, and Mount Everest in 2022. Batard hopes that Sadpara’s inclusion in the team will help establish a positive image of Pakistan.

On January 25 this year, the government announced that it would sponsor Sadpara to climb the remaining 8,000-meter peak.

Financial constraints

As a husband and father, Sadpara has shown himself willing to do anything to put food on the table. The money was paid to him, and climbing made him more motivated.

No one would be ashamed to say that poverty drives the young people of Sadpara to become porters. Instead, he said: “Many people climb for money, but it’s not much, but it provides support for people. However, many of my fellow porters don’t want to go up. A better chance is that they will stop climbing.”

In an interview with Alpinist, Sadpara said that he wants his wife’s sewing machine, and he wants to buy K2 for the winter. All these activities require money. There is no mercy for the money earned from moving heavy objects on rough and uneven terrain.

If their financial burden is reduced, few people are willing to climb. Sadpara added: “In order to climb, you must get rid of interpersonal relationships.”

In 2016, she said that she did not want her children to pursue their own careers.

“To be honest, if you ask me, I don’t want my children to work in this field. My children are studying, and one of them is going to college, and he just refuses to climb. I hope I can have enough income to support my family”.

Human gem

Sadpara searched for British climber Tom Ballard and Italian climber Daniel Nardi in the search team, who were reported missing in Nanga Parbat. Later, their bodies were found on the mountain.

“The man who has been preparing for rescue operations to save lives. Today, I remember his photo from when he was preparing for a rescue operation at Nardi and Tom in Nanga Parbat on February 27, 2019. Skier and climber Cary Karim Shah Naziri said in a tweet on Twitter: “We lost you today, and you (sic) sit back and relax on K2”.

“Muhammed Ali Sadpara is a very good person. A soft, clean and honest soul.” In short, Nazir Saber said that this is human Jewelry. He added that it was fun and I will start dancing.

“He is a real person from the inside out, whether it is a climber or a person in daily life.”

Climbers Try To Make "Impossible-Possible" Climbs On K2

“Sadpara is a very cheerful person,” said Nepalese climber Mingma Ji Sherpa, a member of a 10-person team that successfully completed the first K2 winter summit last month.


Muhammad Ali Sadpara: A True Gem


“He works hard and has a good attitude. He has everything needed to reach the top,” he commented on the K2 base camp team when he was in contact with liming last week.

After reports that Sadpara and John Snorri of Iceland and JP Mohr Prieto of Chile successfully arrived at K2, it was reported that three people were missing. The three people lost contact with the base camp late on Friday and reported missing on Saturday because their support team no longer received their report when they climbed from 8,611 meters to K2.

Search and rescue operations have been carried out since then, to no avail.

I’m waiting for the good news from this cheerful man. Mingma said in a Facebook post on Friday that Ali, John, and Pablo were invited to return safely. Their walkie-talkies cannot work properly because of their low-frequency walkie-talkies. I hope they have returned. Muhammad Ali is a world-class climber from Pakistan. We climbed Nanga Parbat together in 2017. They have been good friends since our first visit to Pakistan in 2014.

Ali’s 21-year-old son, Sajid Sadpara, spoke in the Skardu media yesterday. He was also part of the expedition but had to leave due to equipment problems. He said that the three climbers may have had a car accident when they returned after climbing K2. After climbing K2, he said that the trio had climbed 8,200 meters and was driving towards the bottleneck when separated from them, which is the most technical part of the mountain.

Sajid said that three days after losing him, the chance of surviving in cold weather without proper equipment was “very negligible”, adding that action could be taken to retrieve the body.


Muhammad Ali Sadpara: A True Gem

with Pakistan’s flag


On Monday, Army helicopters and rock climbing experts participated in the rescue operation, which was unsuccessful for the third consecutive day.

A shell hit Sajid, and he recalled his father’s attempt to climb to the top of the mountain. Muhammad Ali may have seen the hidden dangers. The broken equipment gave him the opportunity to take his son back to the safe area. This is the last parental action that can protect Sajid from the wild mountains.

We are hoping for a miracle to come, however, you can follow the continues updates from different news platforms.

Saba Ghani
Saba Ghani

Since 2017, Saba Ghani has been serving as the talented and dedicated chief content writer for Pakistan Tour and Travel & EMHI Solutions. With her exceptional writing skills and in-depth knowledge of the travel industry, she has been instrumental in crafting engaging and informative content that captivates the audience. You can catch her at [email protected] or Twitter

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